By Adam Brownstein
Tokyo/Fall 2022 — Sushi. From our nascent (to whit naive?) upbringing with California rolls to the Michelin star gazing HNIs seeking to dream with Jiro, we foreigners think about this food genre when we think of Japan.
Tokyo is peppered with outstanding sushi bars, and here are five you should try. They are not a copy<>paste job from Google or the Michelin Guide. They are spots I love governed by sushi masters whom I revere.
- Kougaizushi (in Nishi Azabu) – More than 20 years ago I found myself tucked into the deepest corner of Tomo-san’s fabulous hole in the wall in Central Tokyo. Renowned for seasonal specialties (ka-boom! grilled sanma in Autumn!) Kougaizushi is excellent value for money. Two decades onward, I still get charged just ichi-man for course and drinks.
- Sushi Ugatsu (in Shimouma, Setagaya) – a relative newcomer on the sushi scene, Aki-san and his kind wife dish out incredible nigiri replete with red vinegar rice. The environment is austere and calming. The sushi . . . delish!
- Sushi Yuu (in Nishi Azabu) – Sushi Master Daisuke keeps the action moving with fantastic delicacies lovingly plucked from the Sea of Japan. His English is fantastic and on par with the dishes. If you play your cards right you’ll be rewarded with one of his mom’s homemade desserts. Yum!
- Sushi Takamitsu (in Naka Meguro) – Quietly ensconced alongside the Meguro River, this marvelous bar is home to Sushi Master Yaomitsu Yasuda. Famed for uber-fresh uni, it also features fantastic hand-rolls and a lively local clientele.
- Udatsu Sushi (in Kamimeguro) – No detail is left untended, from the Wegner chairs to the Edo Period door to the hand carved chop sticks. And that’s just the decor! Chef Udatsu arrives at Toyosu Fish Market himself (typically insanely early in the morning) so that can enjoy some of the best nigiri ever the same day! This is a rare find that offers vegetarian courses, too!
Sushi Bar Prime’ette
- Arrive on time and use your indoor voice.
- The sushi master is often referred to as oyakata, Japanese for “big boss”. In West Japan (Osaka, etc.) they are often called taisho (warlord). You get the idea. Treat them with the respect they deserve.
- Sushi and drinks go hand in hand. Start with beer, move to cold sake and end with piping hot green tea.
- There is a difference between Price and Value – Omakase set courses at reputable sushi bars run $100-$300. That may seem like a lot. But when you consider the quality of cuisine, the artistry of the master and the sense of place it is outstanding value. Further it’s the gift that keeps on giving; ” . . . do you remember that epic sushi dinner we had in Tokyo 10 years ago? I can still taste the ikura!”
The Tokyo Yenta 